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To see contemporary applications of traditional workmanship, take a remork to leafy Street 178, "Art Street", where among shops selling gaudy paintings of Apsaras and Day-Glo sunsets, there are a handful of gems.At Garden of Desire (number 33), the jewellery of Pisith Ly, who lost his family to the Khmer Rouge, is crafted from silver, stones, wood and metals, and laden with meaning.The cyclo tour ends at Noodle House (number 32, Street 130), where the cook makes handmade dumplings and pulled noodles to order (from 90p). The more culinary adventurous could head to the handsome art deco Phsar Thmey (central market) for home-cooked curries or stir-fried noodles from one of the many stalls.Khmer Empire crafts were so celebrated that Siamese invaders abducted artisans, along with musicians and dancers, and took them to Thailand.Afterwards, sip cocktails (from £3) to live jazz or join the swing dancers at Doors (number 18, Streets 47 and 84), packed most nights with boisterous expats, locals and tourists.Rise early for a ferry trip and bike ride around Koh Dach (Silk Island) on the Mekong river before it gets hot.WHERE TO STAY Phnom Penh's hotel scene has seen rapid expansion in recent years, providing plenty of options, from stylish boutique hotels in converted villas to flashpacker hostels.If a great pool is your priority, you'll struggle to top the one in the frangipani-filled gardens of The Plantation (doubles from £41), which also has a winning central location.
Back in town, visit Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (Street 113, admission £3), a former school that the Khmer Rouge transformed into Security Prison 21 or S-21, torturing over 17,000 people who were sent to the Killing Fields.
Lunch on local dishes, such as grilled catfish and bamboo shoot salad (from £2), from the food stalls at the base of Phnom Udong, before hiking up the stupa-covered hill for sweeping views.
Nearby, the massive pagodas at the Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Meditation Centre are worth a peek.
Cambodian designer Romyda Keth's Ambre (number 37 is filled with affordable, feminine fashion.
Parallel Street 240 is shopping central, with cafes, restaurants and wine bars tucked between boutiques.In the galleries upstairs and behind the cafe Java Arts shows contemporary Cambodian art and hosts engaging events, such as the recent Strip All Night, where cartoonists create a 24-page comic in 24 consecutive hours.